Ingrown Hairs - Those Pesty Little Buggers!

A lot of my clients have questions about ingrown hairs...why they have them and how they can be avoided. Ingrown hairs are most common on the face and pubic ares, though they can occur on legs, arms, backs, etc.

Ingrown hairs, or pseudofolliculitis, are the result of the hair curling and growing back underneath the skin. If the hair is broken off or cut it can leave a sharp edge, giving it the ability to penetrate. These bumps can also happen if you shave in the opposite direction of the natural hair growth or by shaving too close to the skin. Oil can also get trapped in the hair follicle, creating a red, irritated bump that resembles acne.

Waxing is a wonderful option for people who experience ingrown hairs or who have course and curly hair that is prone to these annoying little pests. Because waxing removes hair at the root, it does not leave a sharp edge. Even better is that, with repeated waxings over the course of time, the root of the hair is eventually damaged, causing the hair to grow back thinner and more sparse. Threading, electrolysis, tweezing, sugaring and laser hair removal are all options that will leave you experiencing ingrowns.

If you prefer to shave there are a few things that you can do to try to eliminate ingrowns. First, exfoliate the area on a regular basis. If it's on the legs, back, bikini or any other area than the face, use a loofah sponge or scrubbing mitt and rub in circular motions. Keep the area clean, especially if it's in an area where you sweat, such as underarms or pubic area. Cleanse after exercising, especially. On the face, use a grainy exfoliant or a product with salycilic or glycolic acid. Try to find an aftershave that includes these exfoliants but also moisturizes. Exfoliating this often can dry out the skin, particularly in Winter. Always shave in the direction of hair growth. Sometimes, take a few days off from the razor will help it to be less irritating. Try to go "au naturale" on weekends if you have to shave regularly for work.

I try to encourage my clients to never, ever pick at an ingrown hair or try to extract it themselves. I know, I know...it's tough to let it go, but if picked at, an ingrown hair may actually become infected or, EVEN WORSE, could scar.

What do I do with that leftover pumpkin?

Don’t throw away those leftovers! Pumpkin has long been used in skin care products and makes a fantastic ingredient for facial masks. It is wonderful for all skin types and is packed with useful enzymes that exfoliate the skin naturally, plus is high in vitamins A (alpha hydroxy acid), C (antioxidant) and Zinc. Adding honey, a natural humectant, is great for dehydrated skin…and almost everyone except my toddler son suffers from dehydrated skin. Mix in a bit of milk for moisture and you’re set. Here’s a basic recipe:

2+ teaspoons of fresh cooked pumpkin or certified organic canned pumpkin
1/4 teaspoon honey
1/4 teaspoon milk* (lactic acid, an AHA)

*If your skin is oily, use soy or skim milk; if your skin is dry, swap the milk for heavy whipping cream. Organic only please!

Mix ingredients together and apply to face using clean hands or a facial brush. Leave on for 10-15 minutes and relax, enjoying the Autumnal aroma of pumpkin. Rinse with cool water and follow with a moisturizer that is appropriate for your skin type. If used during daylight hours, apply an SPF with or to follow your moisturizer.

This is also a wonderful mask for hands and feet. Apply and wrap in plastic wrap. Leave on for 15 minutes, then rinse with cool water and apply hand/foot cream.

Happy Fall!

where has the time gone?

Wow! I can’t believe it’s been almost a month since my last entry. I have been busy, busy, busy during October. I just got the final version of the New Moon Skin Care logo and I am busy getting ready to make my official “launch.” I am testing out skin care lines on friends and getting to know my microdermabrasion machine, which I LOVE. I am so glad that I decided to go diamond tip, rather than crystal. I am looking at a variety of preservative-free, organic skin care lines. I’ll post here once I have more info.

October has given me plenty of ideas for things to write about. First of all, we had TWO trips to the beach. Earlier in the month, we were fortunate enough to be invited to a wedding at Daufuskie Island, off the coast of Hilton Head, SC. Then, two weeks later, we went with some friends to Jamaica for a trio of birthday celebrations. My husband Steve, along with our friends Charles and Curt, celebrated their birthdays so along with their wives and another couple, we went to The Caves Resort in Negril, Jamaica for four days. I highly suggest you get there if you need some R&R or just to recharge the batteries. Anyway, back to the skin care and all that the beach has reminded me about it…

First, I cannot say enough about how good the salt water is. For skin, it is so wonderful…just swimming in the ocean and soaking in the saltwater pool was reminder enough of how amazing it is for the body. Remeber how when you are ill or trying to heal from an injury an old homeopathic trick is to soak in Epsom Salt? This is for a reason. Salt water is detoxifying and pulls impurities from the skin and body. A nice thing if you spend the day indulging in pina coladas!

The next thing, and most obvious for me, is the importance of a high SPF – at LEAST SPF 15. I chuckled yesterday when a friend said, “You just got back from the beach? Where’s your tan?!?” Now, I am much more of a lounge in the shade person than one who prefers to tan. I have fair skin that never really tans but just turns pink, so I never have benefited much from lying in the sun baking like a potato. I have always favored sunscreen over a suntan. But I don’t fault people who do like to lay out or bronze themselves. I just try to educate about the damage that harmful UV rays can cause.

Trying to warn clients about sun damage is like trying to tell a smoker about lung cancer…they all know it’s a possibility but usually they find out the sad truth when it’s too late and they’ve been diagnosed with it. Even people who are blessed with darker pigmented skin can suffer from dark spots that are caused by harmful UV rays.

There are plenty of great suncreens available on the market. I prefer something with zinc oxide, which is marketed as a sunblock. I think the term “sunblock” is misleading because nothing truly blocks the sun, but it does reflect it rather than absorb it like a normal sunscreen would do. Zinc Oxide is tricky though, and people who have oily skin will most likely hate it. It actually stays on top of the skin, creating a barrier against the sun, so people whose skin is oily will feel like they are wearing a sweater. If your skin is more pigmented, you may find that applying it will cause it to look as if you put a layer of kabuki makeup on. Don’t be afraid…you may need to wait and see if it absorbs after a minute. If zinc oxide is not for you, just try to use something higher than an SPF 15. Just use a sunscreen at all…and re-apply often! There’s nothing like getting a sunburn on your first day of vacation, only to spend the next week looking like a snake shedding its skin!

The Aspirin Mask

One of the easiest DIY skin care treatments is the Aspirin Facial, or Aspirin Mask. The main ingredient in aspirin is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid, which is great for oily or acneic skin, because it is a form of chemical exfoliant. Salicylic acid is also anti-inflammatory, meaning it can even be used on sensitive skin and some people who suffer from rosacea and acne. It can be drying, though, so if you’re skin is sensitive or dry don’t use it every day. Remember, as with any exfoliant, it increases the rate of cell turnover so be sure to wear sunscreen every day.

Here’s the recipe:

Crush several uncoated aspirin in a mortar and pestle or use powdered aspirin
Mix a bit of warm water*, just enough to form a paste
Spread on face using clean hands or a mask brush
Leave on 10 minutes, then wash off and follow with moisturizer and sunscreen

*you can also mix with aloe vera juice (sensitive and inflamed skin) and/or honey (dry skin)

How easy is that? Now, please be smart. If you are allergic to any of these ingredients, DON’T use them on your skin. Pregnant women or women who are breast-feeding should also not use aspirin. If you suffer from diabetes, blood vessel, kidney or liver disease or if you are just not sure, please consult your doctor before using this on your skin.

Mineral Oils - The Crude Truth About Skin Care

I was just flipping through an old copy of InStyle magazine that I found at my parents home last weekend and in it was an interview with Kate Walsh. She was talking about her mother, who she referred to as an old hipster who is really into skin care and uses olive oil and Vaseline on her face because her skin is so dry.

For years people in the Mediterranean have enjoyed one of the best kept beauty secrets – olive oil. Years ago, I visited Greece with my family and I remember remarking to my mom about how their skin looked so amazing; even the men and women who were noticeably older had skin with a smooth texture and glow. They also enjoy one of the lowest rates of skin cancer, despite how sunny it is.

Olive oil is one of the best oils for your body, both inside and out, and many skin care lines, such as DHC from Japan, use it as a main ingredient. It’s full of polyphenols, which are a form of antioxidant. Antioxidants are vital in helping our skin and bodies ward off the aging process because of their stabilization of free radicals. I could talk about antioxidants and their effects on skin forever…but will save that for another day and time.

What floored me about Kate Walsh’s mom is that she would balance something as positive as olive oil with Vaseline or petroleum jelly, a form of mineral oil. Mineral oil is a byproduct of the distillation process of petroleum to produce gasoline from crude oil. I shudder to think of using it on my skin or the skin of my young son. One of the main reasons that manufacturers of skin care products choose to use mineral oil is because it is extremely cheap. It is commonly found in a variety of skin care lotions, creams and baby products. While mineral oil is extremely emollient, it is very hard for the skin to absorb and can actually clog the pores, making it impossible for the skin to perform one of it’s main functions – to eliminate toxins from the body. When it is absorbed into the body, it is broken down by the liver and passes through the digestive tract. Petroleum jelly can also increase the skin’s photosensitivity, promoting sun damage in the long term. It may also hinder the body’s natural ability to condition itself, which means it has an effect opposite of what it is advertised to do – to heal chapped or dry skin. Don’t believe me? Read the Material Safety Data Sheet, or MSDS from JT Baker. It has quite a few interesting facts about mineral oil that I think you'll find interesting.

There are many alternative oils that are derived from plants – apricot kernal, grapeseed, and jojoba are wonderful alternatives to mineral oil. Oils derived from plants have much more in common with the oil that our body produces – in fact, jojoba oil is actually the closest match to human sebum so I find it to be one of the best oils to use on the skin.

I am not a scientist, and do not pretend to be one. I only write from my personal experiences and opinions about mineral versus plant oils. You will probably find websites that say that mineral oils are completely safe and effective to use on the skin. However, I urge you to explore any unpetroleum skin care products that are available on the market today.

Why exfoliate?

Exfoliation is a very important step in the cleansing process that is often overlooked by my clients.

Skin is made up of five layers. The outermost layer, or epidermis, is made up of cells that reflect light. If that top layer is smooth, it will reflect light evenly. Your skin will look radiant and will have a soft glow. If you do not exfoliate regularly, dead skin cells will accumulate, causing the skin to look dull and lifeless.

Virtually everyone needs to exfoliate at home on a regular basis. People with oily skin or skin that tends to be acneic can benefit the most because acne is a result of the buildup of dead skin cells and bacteria. If you fall into this category, you can exfoliate 2-3 times a week, though you should reduce that amount during cooler weather since this is when oily skin is usually the least active. People with dry skin should exfoliate 1-2 times a week, but should lay off in the warmer months because this is when your skin will be at its best. People with mature skin can exfoliate daily if not using an aggressive exfoliant.

Exfoliators fall into two basic categories – mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliators are often in the form of a scrub but also come in the form of sponges, loofahs and pads. Take your exfoliant and rub it in circular motion onto the skin, then rinse with cool water. Be gentle when exfoliating thinner areas such as the neck and face. Chemical exfoliators are found in the form of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids and Salicylic Acids. These can be a bit harsher on the skin and you’ll often feel a slight tingle from the product you use.

When choosing an exfoliant or scrub, it’s very important to pick something that is gentle and not too abrasive. Certain scrubs contain pieces of shell, which can lodge into the skin, creating tiny little tears that you won’t be able to see with the human eye but are very damaging. I, personally, would never use a loofah on my face because it’s too abrasive. Also, because loofahs are often left in the shower to dry they have a tendency to grow bacteria. You should never, ever use an exfoliator that is designed for the body on your face. It will be way to abrasive and can cause damage to your skin.

No matter what product you choose to exfoliate, always remember to follow with an appropriate moisturizer and sunscreen. After exfoliation, whether on the body or the face, is the most opportune time to apply a self-tanner. You should find that your tanner lasts longer and that your skin glows!

Mechanical Microdermabrasion or D.I.Y. Microdermabrasion Kit?

There are several companies out today that are advertising and selling do-it-yourself microdermabrasion kits. I can’t begin to tell you how this gets under my skin (pun intended.) While a gentle exfoliation at home is a very good thing, trying to accomplish a skin resurfacing technique at home can be fairly hazardous and irritating to the skin.

One of the main reasons not to DIY is the tendency to be far too abrasive and aggressive. Some of you (you know who you are) may try to achieve that deep exfoliation that you get with a microderm machine. Although at home kits are much milder than a machine, they can often cause skin irritation. If used too harshly, aluminum oxide crystals can be left on the skin, and in some cases have actually been found embedded into the skin. These potentially harmful crystals, if left in the skin, can also lead to breakouts and irritation, and even worse, mild scarring.

Another reason not to use an at home system is the tendency to cause breakouts and/or inflammation. These are mostly due to harmful chemicals that are found in the cream that the crystals are in but are also sometimes caused by operator error, mostly because the purchaser of these creams isn’t aware of whether microderm or skin abrasion is right for them. Estheticians and dermatologists are trained, licensed and certified to give these treatments for a reason. We are aware of the indications and contraindications for certain treatments and will know when a particular person falls into either category.

Don’t get me wrong. I am all in favor of regular exfoliation at home. Almost everyone can benefit from a little scrub…just try something gentle and mild! You can even make your own scrubs out of ingredients that most of us have lying around our kitchen. If you are interested in more information about making your own skin care products, check out Pure Skin: Organic Beauty Basics by Barbara Close, founder of the Naturopathica skin care line. She gives some wonderful recipes that you can try out at home.

If you are considering microderm or would like more information on the microderm offered through New Moon Skin Care, please contact me. The average cost of an at home microdermabrasion kit is $50, not that much less than one 30-minute treatment at New Moon!

Bottom line: DIY might be great for some things like making your own organic skin care products, but leave the microdermabrasion to the professionals!