I was just flipping through an old copy of InStyle magazine that I found at my parents home last weekend and in it was an interview with Kate Walsh. She was talking about her mother, who she referred to as an old hipster who is really into skin care and uses olive oil and Vaseline on her face because her skin is so dry.
For years people in the Mediterranean have enjoyed one of the best kept beauty secrets – olive oil. Years ago, I visited Greece with my family and I remember remarking to my mom about how their skin looked so amazing; even the men and women who were noticeably older had skin with a smooth texture and glow. They also enjoy one of the lowest rates of skin cancer, despite how sunny it is.
Olive oil is one of the best oils for your body, both inside and out, and many skin care lines, such as DHC from Japan, use it as a main ingredient. It’s full of polyphenols, which are a form of antioxidant. Antioxidants are vital in helping our skin and bodies ward off the aging process because of their stabilization of free radicals. I could talk about antioxidants and their effects on skin forever…but will save that for another day and time.
What floored me about Kate Walsh’s mom is that she would balance something as positive as olive oil with Vaseline or petroleum jelly, a form of mineral oil. Mineral oil is a byproduct of the distillation process of petroleum to produce gasoline from crude oil. I shudder to think of using it on my skin or the skin of my young son. One of the main reasons that manufacturers of skin care products choose to use mineral oil is because it is extremely cheap. It is commonly found in a variety of skin care lotions, creams and baby products. While mineral oil is extremely emollient, it is very hard for the skin to absorb and can actually clog the pores, making it impossible for the skin to perform one of it’s main functions – to eliminate toxins from the body. When it is absorbed into the body, it is broken down by the liver and passes through the digestive tract. Petroleum jelly can also increase the skin’s photosensitivity, promoting sun damage in the long term. It may also hinder the body’s natural ability to condition itself, which means it has an effect opposite of what it is advertised to do – to heal chapped or dry skin. Don’t believe me? Read the Material Safety Data Sheet, or MSDS from JT Baker. It has quite a few interesting facts about mineral oil that I think you'll find interesting.
There are many alternative oils that are derived from plants – apricot kernal, grapeseed, and jojoba are wonderful alternatives to mineral oil. Oils derived from plants have much more in common with the oil that our body produces – in fact, jojoba oil is actually the closest match to human sebum so I find it to be one of the best oils to use on the skin.
I am not a scientist, and do not pretend to be one. I only write from my personal experiences and opinions about mineral versus plant oils. You will probably find websites that say that mineral oils are completely safe and effective to use on the skin. However, I urge you to explore any unpetroleum skin care products that are available on the market today.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Why exfoliate?
Exfoliation is a very important step in the cleansing process that is often overlooked by my clients.
Skin is made up of five layers. The outermost layer, or epidermis, is made up of cells that reflect light. If that top layer is smooth, it will reflect light evenly. Your skin will look radiant and will have a soft glow. If you do not exfoliate regularly, dead skin cells will accumulate, causing the skin to look dull and lifeless.
Virtually everyone needs to exfoliate at home on a regular basis. People with oily skin or skin that tends to be acneic can benefit the most because acne is a result of the buildup of dead skin cells and bacteria. If you fall into this category, you can exfoliate 2-3 times a week, though you should reduce that amount during cooler weather since this is when oily skin is usually the least active. People with dry skin should exfoliate 1-2 times a week, but should lay off in the warmer months because this is when your skin will be at its best. People with mature skin can exfoliate daily if not using an aggressive exfoliant.
Exfoliators fall into two basic categories – mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliators are often in the form of a scrub but also come in the form of sponges, loofahs and pads. Take your exfoliant and rub it in circular motion onto the skin, then rinse with cool water. Be gentle when exfoliating thinner areas such as the neck and face. Chemical exfoliators are found in the form of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids and Salicylic Acids. These can be a bit harsher on the skin and you’ll often feel a slight tingle from the product you use.
When choosing an exfoliant or scrub, it’s very important to pick something that is gentle and not too abrasive. Certain scrubs contain pieces of shell, which can lodge into the skin, creating tiny little tears that you won’t be able to see with the human eye but are very damaging. I, personally, would never use a loofah on my face because it’s too abrasive. Also, because loofahs are often left in the shower to dry they have a tendency to grow bacteria. You should never, ever use an exfoliator that is designed for the body on your face. It will be way to abrasive and can cause damage to your skin.
No matter what product you choose to exfoliate, always remember to follow with an appropriate moisturizer and sunscreen. After exfoliation, whether on the body or the face, is the most opportune time to apply a self-tanner. You should find that your tanner lasts longer and that your skin glows!
Skin is made up of five layers. The outermost layer, or epidermis, is made up of cells that reflect light. If that top layer is smooth, it will reflect light evenly. Your skin will look radiant and will have a soft glow. If you do not exfoliate regularly, dead skin cells will accumulate, causing the skin to look dull and lifeless.
Virtually everyone needs to exfoliate at home on a regular basis. People with oily skin or skin that tends to be acneic can benefit the most because acne is a result of the buildup of dead skin cells and bacteria. If you fall into this category, you can exfoliate 2-3 times a week, though you should reduce that amount during cooler weather since this is when oily skin is usually the least active. People with dry skin should exfoliate 1-2 times a week, but should lay off in the warmer months because this is when your skin will be at its best. People with mature skin can exfoliate daily if not using an aggressive exfoliant.
Exfoliators fall into two basic categories – mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliators are often in the form of a scrub but also come in the form of sponges, loofahs and pads. Take your exfoliant and rub it in circular motion onto the skin, then rinse with cool water. Be gentle when exfoliating thinner areas such as the neck and face. Chemical exfoliators are found in the form of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids and Salicylic Acids. These can be a bit harsher on the skin and you’ll often feel a slight tingle from the product you use.
When choosing an exfoliant or scrub, it’s very important to pick something that is gentle and not too abrasive. Certain scrubs contain pieces of shell, which can lodge into the skin, creating tiny little tears that you won’t be able to see with the human eye but are very damaging. I, personally, would never use a loofah on my face because it’s too abrasive. Also, because loofahs are often left in the shower to dry they have a tendency to grow bacteria. You should never, ever use an exfoliator that is designed for the body on your face. It will be way to abrasive and can cause damage to your skin.
No matter what product you choose to exfoliate, always remember to follow with an appropriate moisturizer and sunscreen. After exfoliation, whether on the body or the face, is the most opportune time to apply a self-tanner. You should find that your tanner lasts longer and that your skin glows!
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Mechanical Microdermabrasion or D.I.Y. Microdermabrasion Kit?
There are several companies out today that are advertising and selling do-it-yourself microdermabrasion kits. I can’t begin to tell you how this gets under my skin (pun intended.) While a gentle exfoliation at home is a very good thing, trying to accomplish a skin resurfacing technique at home can be fairly hazardous and irritating to the skin.
One of the main reasons not to DIY is the tendency to be far too abrasive and aggressive. Some of you (you know who you are) may try to achieve that deep exfoliation that you get with a microderm machine. Although at home kits are much milder than a machine, they can often cause skin irritation. If used too harshly, aluminum oxide crystals can be left on the skin, and in some cases have actually been found embedded into the skin. These potentially harmful crystals, if left in the skin, can also lead to breakouts and irritation, and even worse, mild scarring.
Another reason not to use an at home system is the tendency to cause breakouts and/or inflammation. These are mostly due to harmful chemicals that are found in the cream that the crystals are in but are also sometimes caused by operator error, mostly because the purchaser of these creams isn’t aware of whether microderm or skin abrasion is right for them. Estheticians and dermatologists are trained, licensed and certified to give these treatments for a reason. We are aware of the indications and contraindications for certain treatments and will know when a particular person falls into either category.
Don’t get me wrong. I am all in favor of regular exfoliation at home. Almost everyone can benefit from a little scrub…just try something gentle and mild! You can even make your own scrubs out of ingredients that most of us have lying around our kitchen. If you are interested in more information about making your own skin care products, check out Pure Skin: Organic Beauty Basics by Barbara Close, founder of the Naturopathica skin care line. She gives some wonderful recipes that you can try out at home.
If you are considering microderm or would like more information on the microderm offered through New Moon Skin Care, please contact me. The average cost of an at home microdermabrasion kit is $50, not that much less than one 30-minute treatment at New Moon!
Bottom line: DIY might be great for some things like making your own organic skin care products, but leave the microdermabrasion to the professionals!
One of the main reasons not to DIY is the tendency to be far too abrasive and aggressive. Some of you (you know who you are) may try to achieve that deep exfoliation that you get with a microderm machine. Although at home kits are much milder than a machine, they can often cause skin irritation. If used too harshly, aluminum oxide crystals can be left on the skin, and in some cases have actually been found embedded into the skin. These potentially harmful crystals, if left in the skin, can also lead to breakouts and irritation, and even worse, mild scarring.
Another reason not to use an at home system is the tendency to cause breakouts and/or inflammation. These are mostly due to harmful chemicals that are found in the cream that the crystals are in but are also sometimes caused by operator error, mostly because the purchaser of these creams isn’t aware of whether microderm or skin abrasion is right for them. Estheticians and dermatologists are trained, licensed and certified to give these treatments for a reason. We are aware of the indications and contraindications for certain treatments and will know when a particular person falls into either category.
Don’t get me wrong. I am all in favor of regular exfoliation at home. Almost everyone can benefit from a little scrub…just try something gentle and mild! You can even make your own scrubs out of ingredients that most of us have lying around our kitchen. If you are interested in more information about making your own skin care products, check out Pure Skin: Organic Beauty Basics by Barbara Close, founder of the Naturopathica skin care line. She gives some wonderful recipes that you can try out at home.
If you are considering microderm or would like more information on the microderm offered through New Moon Skin Care, please contact me. The average cost of an at home microdermabrasion kit is $50, not that much less than one 30-minute treatment at New Moon!
Bottom line: DIY might be great for some things like making your own organic skin care products, but leave the microdermabrasion to the professionals!
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